Lega Cap, Democratic Republic of Congo, Based

Rows of pale beads wind up this cap like a coiled shell.

This cap from the Lega of the Democratic Republic of Congo, Central Africa, was made in hemp in the 20th century. Lega caps of this type are often associated with the Bwami association, in which dress marks status and achievement. The conical crown is built from tight horizontal bands of small white and brown beads, topped with a small bead cluster and a long, thin fiber plume that sweeps back. A woven brown rim holds it all together, and two braided straps hang down on either side.

About 10 inches tall. Pale, banded and elegant in profile, a good argument for the cone shape.